The culinary culture of the Thai ethnic people in Mai Chau, Hoa Binh is well-known for its diversity and attractiveness, from presentation to flavors. Dishes like bamboo rice, grilled chicken/duck in bamboo tubes, snail cake, thorn leaf cake, sticky rice with grilled chicken, grilled chicken with mac khen, sour bamboo shoot soup, etc., are popular in restaurants, eateries, and resorts in Hoa Binh and are favored by diners.

However, there is another delicious dish of the Thai people that not all tourists are aware of, which is steamed fish with papaya leaves.

“When we introduce steamed fish with papaya leaves, many customers shake their heads in refusal. They believe that this type of leaf is very bitter, not delicious, difficult to eat, and is only used for medicinal purposes,” said Mr. Trinh Phuc Man, the owner of a resort in Xam Kho, Mai Chau, Hoa Binh.

The appearance of this dish is not very appealing at first glance, resembling a rudimentary wrapped cake. The outer layer of leaves is not vibrant green and looks faded.

“At first, customers complained, but after tasting it, many people were surprised because steamed fish with papaya leaves is very delicious, flavorful, and unique. The leaves and papaya flowers are very bitter, but when prepared correctly, they have a slight bitterness and a sweet aftertaste. This is one of the most popular dishes at my restaurant,” Mr. Man said.

During festivals, especially the new rice celebration, the dining table of the Thai ethnic people always has steamed fish with papaya leaves.

The ingredients for this dish include: fresh fish, usually selecting a piece from the upper part near the head to minimize bones and have a wide belly; peeled papaya leaves; some aromatic herbs such as basil, cilantro, dill, lemongrass, and green onions; lemongrass, ginger, mac khen, chili, pepper, dried shallots.

According to Ms. Lo Huong Giang, a Thai ethnic person in Xam Kho, Mai Chau, who is currently a chef at a local resort: The people usually choose fish weighing 2-3kg or more for its delicious, sweet, and firm meat. The fish is cleaned, cut into pieces suitable for wrapping in papaya leaves.

After preparing and marinating the fish, the chef wraps it tightly in papaya leaves, adding a layer of banana leaves, then wraps it up like a Chung cake. “This step must be done carefully to prevent the fish juices from leaking out during steaming,” Ms. Giang said.

The steaming time is from 1.5 to 2 hours to cook the fish evenly, soften the papaya leaves, and infuse them with the fish juices.

When serving customers, the staff will bring the whole wrapped fish to the table. When peeling off the banana leaf and gently splitting the papaya leaf shell to both sides with chopsticks, diners will see a thick piece of fish, with white, tender meat emitting a hot, aromatic, and savory smell, stimulating the senses.

Taking a piece of fish into the mouth, diners will taste a slightly bitter taste of papaya leaves, mixed with the sweet, fragrant fish meat, infused with spices like pepper, chili. The fish has a sweet aftertaste, not as bitter as many people think.

According to Traditional Chinese Medicine, papaya leaves have a cooling property, slightly bitter taste, with a dark smell, and are useful for reducing heat, detoxifying, cooling the liver, nourishing the intestines, and promoting bowel movements. This leaf is considered a “panacea.”

Mai Chau District has great tourism potential and advantages and has been developed since the 1990s. It has become a bright spot on the Vietnamese tourism map with 197 accommodation establishments, including 4 resorts, 9 hotels meeting 1-3-star standards, 31 guesthouses, and 153 community homestays.

Resolution 06-NQ/TU on “developing Mai Chau District into a national tourism destination by 2020, vision to 2030” plays a guiding role in the recent development of tourism activities in Mai Chau. In addition, Mai Chau District (Hoa Binh) has integrated programs to build new rural areas linked to economic development, helping people escape poverty.

The word “fragrant” spreads far and wide, attracting more tourists to visit Mai Chau each year. In the first 9 months of 2023, the district welcomed 467,713 visitors, including 54,807 international visitors and 412,906 domestic visitors.

In addition to the natural landscape, the cultural heritage of the Thai ethnic people is attractive, and the cuisine also contributes to attracting visitors to Mai Chau. Tourism revenue significantly contributes to the economic and social development of the district.
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